We do not scald milk before making bread and, in general, are delighted with the loft of our bread. Could it be even better???

Shirley Corriher, in her now-famous book Cookwise (Canada, UK), says research at Michigan State in the mid-1970s showed that a protein present in the whey of nonfat dry milk caused a reduction in the volume and a coarseness in the texture of bread. Subsequently, the effect was seen in fresh milk, as well. Heating the milk and holding it at 180°F to 190°F (82°C to 88°C) for several minutes appeared to reduce this effect.

Ms. Corriher says she thinks the amount of the rascally protein is really what matters, and has not noticed a decrease in the rise of her bread when using just a little milk in a recipe. But, to be on the safe side, she says, she intends to continue scalding fresh and even reconstituted dry milk for her own "peace of mind."