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New York Cooks:
100 Recipes from the City's Best Chefs

By Joan Krellenstein and Barbara Winkler
ISBN: 1933027789
Publisher: Sixth&Spring
Publication date: September 2009
Format: Hardcover
Number of recipes: 100
List price: $29.95
Type: Chef's; Regional: New York City
Sample recipes: Gravy Meatball Sliders; Roasted Cod with Brussels Sprouts, Carrots, Apple Butter, and Cider Vinaigrette
Ambitions
Intended audience: novice advanced beginner good home cook gourmet professional
Apparent goal: stocking stuffer sampler comprehensive encyclopedia coffee-table
Meal part: all breakfast/brunch lunch dinner dessert
Competition: outclassed a bit behind in the pack strong challenger likely champ
Content
Variety: too little too much unusual nice mix just right
Practical recipes: <20% <40% <60% <80% ≥80%
# of ingredients: ≤4 ≤7 ≤10 ≤12 >12
Ingredient hunt: airfare required online specialty store supermarket pantry
Recipe complexity: too hard simple medium challenging professional
Instructions: inadequate verbose minimal complete educational
Time conscious: not conscious bald lies white lies realistic scout's honor
Cooking time: weekend project takes all day takes time ≥30 minutes <30 minutes
Added info: zip overwhelming scant ample generous
Photos/drawings: none drawings b&w photos occasional color all/mostly color
Art contribution: disappointing distracting decorative beautiful glorious
Recipe results: ≤dorm food casual food family meals fancy food fit for royalty
Diet/Nutrition/Health
Nutritional info: none overwhelming hit or miss adequate comprehensive
Format/Ease of Use
Layout: ugh cluttered fine kind work of art
Legibility: unpleasant challenging ok clear brilliant
Production quality: cheesy delicate years of service gift quality stunning
Page numbers: hard-to-find spotty sufficient most pages every page
Table of contents: missing frustrating minimal helpful excellent
Index: none confusing adequate nice a treasure
Page flipping: upsetting tedious acceptable rare never
Author
Writing history: beginner writer/journalist food writer writing cook personality
Cooking heritage: unknown self-taught teacher chef celebrity
Summary
Fulfills ambitions: falls short satisfactory successful exceeds home run
Flavor delivered: sad inconsistent tasty delicious exceptional
Overall tone: sterile trying too hard straightforward good friend mom
Value: ouch! a little pricey worth splurging on the money a deal
Overall rating: skip it good very good excellent Ochef Top 100

Comments: Did you think 100 recipes from New York chefs would be simple? They are not. Even some of the salads have 15 to 20 ingredients. This collection of 39 New York chefs (and their restaurants and recipes) are subdivided by region and cooking approach:

  • New American – Gramercy Tavern: Michael Anthony, August: Tony Liu, Town at the Chambers Hotel: Geoffrey Zakarian, Davidburke & Donatella: Eric Hara, Union Square Café: Carmen Quagliata, Annisa: Anita Lo
  • Italian – Abboccato: Jim Botsacos, Barolo Restaurant: Patrick Nuti, Centro Vinoteca: Anne Burrell, Insieme: Marco Canora, Scarpetta: Scott Conant, Gemma: Chris D’Amico
  • Urban Country – Irving Mill: John Schaefer, Allen & Delancy: Neil Ferguson, Market Table: Mikey Price, The Little Owl: Joey Campanaro, Blue Smoke: Kenny Callaghan, Salt: Melissa O'Donnell
  • French – Artisinal and Picholine: Terrance Brennan, LandMarc: Marc Murphy, Fleur de Sel: Cyril Renaud, Café des Artistes: George Lang, Tocqueville: Marco Moreira
  • Classic American – Bridge Café: Joseph Kunst, Telepan: Bill Telepan, Beacon: Waldy Malouf, Porter House New York: Michael Lomanaco
  • Mediterranean and Iberian – Casa Mono: Andy Nusser, Molyvos: Jim Botsacos, Alfama, Fine Portuguese Cuisine: Mark Twersky, Pamplona: Alex Urena, Periyali: Jimmy Henderson
  • "Specialty Cuisines" (Mexican, raw food, North African, oceanic, Lebanese, and pan-Asian) – Crema Restaurant: Julieta Ballesteros, Pure Food and Wine: Neal Harden, Nomad: Jose Salgado, Oceana: Ben Pollinger, Ilili: Philippe Massoud, Tao New York: Sam Hazen

Are these the city's best chefs? They certainly are among the best chefs, but if you were to compile a list of New York's best chefs, clearly there are many names missing.

Each chef is profiled, reveals his or her favorite comfort food and kitchen tool, and launches into two or three recipes, which may be classics, may be fancy, may be reasonably plain, but most of which include a lot of ingredients and a lot of steps. Some dishes look fabulous and all will teach you something.

There are a few points that are confusing. For instance, surely you don’t serve the body of the lobster in the lobster cocktail – just the claws, knuckles, and tail that you separated, right? There is no meat in the body. Is the celery root puree celery or celery root? And the statement, "you won't break the bank using 1 ounce of foie gras" only makes sense in the world of chefs. Where are the rest of us going to get 1 ounce of foie gras?

Otherwise you can cook like the big shots – or at least give it a sporting try!



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